Beef Brisket

Image illustrating the beef brisket recipe

by Dana Leilehua Yuen

Here is a beef brisket using one of Geraldine’s recipes, and my cooking method. I don’t think my mother ever owned a slow cooker. I have four – two big ones and two little ones.

This recipe says, “Damn the fat! Full speed ahead!” Remember, “fat is flavor!” As Geraldine would tell us, “We all eat way too much anyway.” Following her lead, I’d rather have a few bites of something scrumptious than a plateful of something bland.

Here are the seasonings for the rub. These are the approximate proportions. Adjust to your taste. Yes, the platter was made by Geraldine. (I miss her!) The little bowls are from China.

Ingredients

Mince the onions and garlic very fine. Keep mincing!

Run the peppers through your food mill and blend with the paprika and cumin. I love the fragrance of this blend! I reminds me of the spice blend used on the fried peas vendors would bring to the trains when I was in Indonesia.

Now, thoroughly mix together the garlic, onions, spices, and sugar.

Take a lovely brisket and lay it on a platter with the fatty side up. Coat the top with the blend and let it stand, covered. 

While the brisket is standing, chop up some nice roots and veggies for the slow cooker. You want a thick layer on the bottom. These are going to provide flavor and steam for the brisket, and keep it from lying in its fat as it cooks. The veggies will absorb a bunch of that fat, and some people may not want to eat them but I love the flavor. Just have a huge green salad and eat the pot veggies as a treat. 

Set the brisket on top of the veggies and cook on high for a couple of hours, then reduce to low and cook overnight or until as tender as you like.

Remove the brisket and set it on a carving platter. Leave to set at least 15 minutes before carving.

The veggies will be drenched in the fat and juices. 

Remove and drain them. They are delicious, but very rich. Enjoy, just don’t eat too much!

Keep warm while you prepare the sides and sauces.

Separate the fat and the juices so you can serve the brisket au jus

( “Au jus” means “with sauce.” So, you serve meat au jus, you don’t serve meat WITH au jus. That is redundant.)

On the left is the fat. I like to save it and use it for cooking omelettes. You don’t need much, just enough to oil the skillet. On the right is le jus. Put it in a lovely heat-resistant pitcher and serve piping hot with the brisket.

Enjoy!

On the left, my husband, Manu Josiah. On the right is our friend, Chris Okano, proprietor of Kitchen Umeko.

Shopping

A Spring Sandwich

Featured image to illustrate sardine sandwich

What a beautiful day in mid-May today is! Geraldine was born on 9 May, and so I have been thinking of her a lot. It was always a delight to sit with her in her garden and have sandwiches made with her delicious bread (sourdough, made with “Melissa,” the family starter), cheese or some such, and fresh spring greens from the garden.

To build this sandwich, start with an excellent bread, sliced thick. Butter it thinly, and spread with a bit more than that of home-made mayonnaise. Add a generous amount of Geraldine’s sweet hot brown mustard. Mash some of the sardines into the mustard and top with spring onions. Add a bit more mashed sardine. Top with nasturtium leaves. Top that with a whole sardine and garnish with a nasturtium.

Serve with an excellent beer or a glass of water with a squeeze of calamansi or lime.

Geraldine on Health

Those who knew Geraldine will remember her mantra for good health, “Get off your ass and don’t eat shit.”

She was reared on a farm and had access to wonderful fresh organically grown (her parents were huge advocates of “natural farming”) food. Her parents were close friends of Adelle Davis, and helped Ms. Davis test many of the recipes in the books she wrote.

Geraldine was an active child, running, swimming, climbing playing with the animals when home, and at school she was active in sports. She was an avid basketball player, and her father, Gerald Wenker, was coach of the girl’s team. Her senior year in high school, she was the California State high-diving champion.

In college, she continued to be active, participating in archery, scuba diving, swimming, hiking, camping, and with her first husband, built a boat.

But the food available to college students, and easy access to wine and beer, started a slippery slope which became even more steep when she had her first child and grew less active. Feelings of frustration were quelled with unhealthy eating habits and she began a gain in weight which plagued her for the next 40 years. Though she still remained more active than most people, the additional weight damaged her hips, slowing her down more than she liked. When she became caregiver for her oldest son, she did not have the energy to care for herself. After his death, she began a process which included exercise and healthful eating. Included in that self-care was the decision to have her damaged hips replaced. To be able to have surgery, she needed to get fit. She got out her mother’s old copies of Adelle Davis’ books and with the help of her granddaughter, a nutritionist and massage therapist, began a new journey of loving and caring for herself.

In only a couple of years, she was able again to hike, swim, dance, garden, and do all of the things she loved. In her late 70s she developed lung cancer, probably as a result of smoking for a half century. She opted for palliative care, rather than aggressive treatment, and lived life to the fullest, continuing to sing, garden, and hike until just a few months before her death. To the end of her 82 years, every time people asked “Geraldine, how do you do it?” She replied “Get off your ass and don’t eat shit.”

In addition to eating healthful foods and being active, Geraldine was a huge proponent of daily weigh-ins. At the time, the bathroom scale simply told you the total weight resting on its platform. Useful data, but to get more specific information, such as how much of that weight is muscle VS fat, and how well hydrated you are, you used to have to go to the doctor.

But now. . . Smart scales! Smart scales use bioelectrical impedance analysis, which sends a tiny, safe electrical current through your body to measure your impedance. Impedance is the level of resistance the current encounters as it travels through your body. While not 100% accurate, it gives a more thorough idea of what is going on inside the body. Accessing this information on a daily basis is great bio-feedback to monitor what works and what does not for you.

But whatever books or gadgets we decide to use, it really does come down to what Geraldine always said: “Get off your ass and don’t eat shit.”

Books, books, books!

Geraldine adored books. Her book collection filled her house, and she knew each book like an old friend and visited them frequently. The Questing Feast now has books page. In it you will find all of Geraldine’s cookbooks as well as other books of interest. There are only a few books listed so far, and you are welcome to suggest more!

To join the discussion, come chat on Facebook at The Questing Feast Gathering.

Epiphany

by Geraldine Duncann

Today most of us have forgotten that December 25th is only the first day of Christmas.  Traditionally twelve days were celebrated with the major celebration being on January 5th or 12th Night.  Remember that according to the legends surrounding the birth of Christ, it took the Three Kings, or Wise Men, twelve days to arrive at the manger in Bethlehem after having seen the star, which is suppose to have signified his birth. 

In Medieval times, Christmas Day was a day of church going and poise religious observation.  The feasting and reveler did not begin until the following day, and continued through the remaining twelve days, culminating in the final 12th Night revels on January 5th or Epiphany Eve. 

It wasn’t until the reign of England’s King Henry the VIII that Christmas Day became a day of revelry as well. 

During the puritanical Commonwealth period of Oliver Cromwell, all forms of celebration other than religious observance was banned.  When, after the Cromwells were ousted and people were once again able to celebrate, the major emphasis was on Christmas Day and the celebration of the other twelve days of Christmas gradually faded away in most parts of the Christian world.

Some do however still observe 12th Night and a big part of that celebration is the 12th Night or King’s Cake.  This cake takes several forms.  In New Orleans the “Kings Cake” is usually made from a Brioche dough baked in a ring.  It is then decorated with a simple icing and purple, green and yellow sugar.  The cake usually has a token baked into it.  The person who gets this token in his or her piece is the “King of the Revels.”  In early days the token was a bean or coin.  For some reason, in Victorian times and in the early 20th century the token shifted to a small baby doll representing the Christ child.

In France, “Galette des Rois” is a puff pastry creation, usually filled with, frangipane or an almond flavored filling.  The Galette des Rois is often decorated with a crown made form gold foil covered cardboard.  This cake also has a token baked into it and the one who receives it gets to wear the crown.

Both in New Orleans and in France, nearly every bakery sells them.  Often one has to put in their order weeks in advance to be assured of having a Kings Cake for 12th Night.

If you would like to have a Kings Cake for 12th Night you may find the following recipes useful.

Cranberry Orange Relish

by Geraldine Duncann
Facebook * Twitter * Patreon

Makes about 3 cups

This delicious condiment is perfect to accompany the noble Thanksgiving bird in his tasty way.

  • 1 large seedless orange, including the peel
  • 1, 12-ounce package fresh cranberries
  • 1 ½ cups of sugar
  • 1 cup of orange juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmegPeel the orange and reserve half of the peel.  Dice the orange.  Chop half of the peel very finely.  Put all ingredients into a heavy sauce pan with a heavy lid.  Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a rapid simmer and cover.  Continue to cook for about fifteen minutes.  Remove the lid and continue cooking until much of the liquid has evaporated and a jam like consistency is achieved.

Mulled Wine Jelly

by Geraldine Duncann
Facebook * Twitter * Patreon

Makes about 4 cups

Mulled wine jelly is excellent to use as you would any other jelly.  Try serving it at a tea party on toast rounds with cream cheese or fresh Mozzarella.  Mulled wine jelly also goes magnificently with turkey.  Try it with your Thanksgiving bird as a delectable alternative to cranberries.  I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

  • 3 cups Mulled Wine
  • 1 box SURE.JELL fruit Pectin
  • 1/2 teaspoon butter
  • 4 cups sugar

Put the wine, into a six or eight quart saucepan.  Stir in the pectin. Add the butter.  Bring the mixture to a full rolling boil, (a boil that doesn’t stop bubbling when stirred) on high heat, stirring constantly. 

Stir in the sugar.  Return to a full rolling boil and boil for exactly one minute, stirring constantly.  Remove from the heat and skim off any foam with a large metal spoon.Ladle into sterilized jars, filling to within one quarter inch of the tips.  Cover with lids or melted paraffin.  It is best to keep it refrigerated.

Corn Pudding with Fresh Herbs

by Geraldine Duncann
Facebook * Twitter * Patreon

Serves 6 to 8

This almost authentic early American corn pudding is great any time; however, it’s particularly nice when it enhances your Thanksgiving table.

  • 1 cup of yellow corn meal
  • 1 cup of all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 4 eggs, separated
  • 2 cups milk or half and half
  • 1, 10 ounce package frozen corn kernels – (about 2 cups) or the equivalent cut fresh from the cob
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
  • 1 clove of garlic, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
  • A few gratings of nutmeg
  • Ground Cayenne to taste
  • Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 350° f  (180°c or Gas mark 4).  Sift of mix all dry ingredients together well and set aside.  Separate the eggs.  Beat the yolks with the milk and fold into the dry ingredients.  Mix only until the dry ingredients are moistened.  Add the corn, herbs, spices, salt and pepper and stir gently.  Beat the egg whites until they hold soft peaks and gently fold into the corn batter.  Pour into an oiled baking dish that will hold about twice the capacity of the batter.  Bake for forty-five minutes to an hour.  It is done when a slim bamboo skewer inserted into the center comes out clean.

Herb and Parmesan Biscuits

by Geraldine Duncann
Facebook * Twitter * Patreon

Makes about 12 to 15 biscuits

If you like biscuits, you’ll love these delectable, flaky, crusty, savory little nuggets of flavor.  Imagine a perfect biscuit, further enhanced by Parmesan and savory herbs.

  • 2 ½ cups of all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 teaspoon mixed dry herbs – (Italian seasoning)
  • 1 stick of cold butter or margarine, cut into small pieces
  • 3/4 cup cold buttermilk *
Pre-heat the oven to 350°.  Toss the dry ingredients together into a bowl.  Add the butter and using a wire pastry cutter, cut into the flour until all is well blended. When finished the size of the shortening should be no larger than peas.  Add the buttermilk and using a table fork, stir into the butter and flour mixture until all the dry ingredients are moistened.  Do not overwork or the resulting biscuits will be tough.  Gather the dough together into a ball and working on a lightly floured surface, pat out into a disk that is about 1 inch thick. Don’t worry if the surface is a bit cracked and lumpy looking.  Cut biscuits with a two inch cutter.  Place about an inch apart on a baking sheet that has been lined with baker’s parchment.  Place in the center of the pre-heated oven and bake for twenty to twenty-five minutes or until golden brown and flaky.  Remove from the oven and serve at once with much more butter than you should ever eat.  

* If you haven’t got buttermilk, add 1 teaspoon of lemon juice or white vinegar to the 3/4 cup of milk.

Zucchini Corn Bread

by Geraldine Duncann
Facebook * Twitter * Patreon

Makes an 8 or 9 inch skillet full

This is a recipe I developed one of those years when the zucchini in the garden got carried away with their own importance.  You know, the year when you have so damn many zucchini that you’ve tried every recipe in every cookbook on the shelf, have given them to all your relatives and friends and fill bags with them to take to the local bus stop and foisted them off on poor unsuspecting commuters on their way home from work.

I’m sure you have several recipes for delicious, dark, rich, sweet version.  This is a savory version that goes great with a pot of beans.  You will need an 8 or 9 inch cast iron skillet to make this cornbread.

  • 1 cup all-porpoise flour
  • 1 cup yellow corn meal
  • 1 cup Masa Harina
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • ¼ cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon Chili Powder
  • About  1 ½ cups grated zucchini
  • 1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
  • 2 eggs, lightly beaten
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • Cold water
  • Oil for the skillet

Preheat the oven the oven to 500° or 550°.  Put about 2 tablespoons of olive oil in the skillet and put the skillet in the center of the oven.

Sift all dry ingredients together into a large mixing bowl.  Add the grated zucchini and cheese and toss to coat evenly.  Mix the oil and egg together and add to the bowl, gradually add enough cold water to make a thick batter, stirring gently as you add. 

Now, working quickly and carefully, (remember, that skillet is going to be scorching hot,) remove the skillet from the oven and pour the batter into it. * Place the skillet back in the oven, reduce the heat to 350° and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until a bamboo skewer inserted into the center comes out clean.  Remove from the oven and allow to cool for about 5 minutes before cutting into wedges.  Serve hot with more butter than anyone has any business eating.  This is great with beans or BBQ.  AND PLEASE, if there is any leftover, which there most likely won’t be, don’t reheat it in the microwave.  That will completely destroy the wonderful texture.  It’s far better to eat it room temperature.  Try slicing the leftovers in half and eating with a wedge of good sharp Cheddar.

*  Don’t get all anal and try to scrape every last drop of batter into the skillet.  The point is to get the batter into the hot, hot skillet, and back into the oven before the skillet cools down.  This is what gives the bread its wonderful texture.