Epiphany

by Geraldine Duncann

Today most of us have forgotten that December 25th is only the first day of Christmas.  Traditionally twelve days were celebrated with the major celebration being on January 5th or 12th Night.  Remember that according to the legends surrounding the birth of Christ, it took the Three Kings, or Wise Men, twelve days to arrive at the manger in Bethlehem after having seen the star, which is suppose to have signified his birth. 

In Medieval times, Christmas Day was a day of church going and poise religious observation.  The feasting and reveler did not begin until the following day, and continued through the remaining twelve days, culminating in the final 12th Night revels on January 5th or Epiphany Eve. 

It wasn’t until the reign of England’s King Henry the VIII that Christmas Day became a day of revelry as well. 

During the puritanical Commonwealth period of Oliver Cromwell, all forms of celebration other than religious observance was banned.  When, after the Cromwells were ousted and people were once again able to celebrate, the major emphasis was on Christmas Day and the celebration of the other twelve days of Christmas gradually faded away in most parts of the Christian world.

Some do however still observe 12th Night and a big part of that celebration is the 12th Night or King’s Cake.  This cake takes several forms.  In New Orleans the “Kings Cake” is usually made from a Brioche dough baked in a ring.  It is then decorated with a simple icing and purple, green and yellow sugar.  The cake usually has a token baked into it.  The person who gets this token in his or her piece is the “King of the Revels.”  In early days the token was a bean or coin.  For some reason, in Victorian times and in the early 20th century the token shifted to a small baby doll representing the Christ child.

In France, “Galette des Rois” is a puff pastry creation, usually filled with, frangipane or an almond flavored filling.  The Galette des Rois is often decorated with a crown made form gold foil covered cardboard.  This cake also has a token baked into it and the one who receives it gets to wear the crown.

Both in New Orleans and in France, nearly every bakery sells them.  Often one has to put in their order weeks in advance to be assured of having a Kings Cake for 12th Night.

If you would like to have a Kings Cake for 12th Night you may find the following recipes useful.

Cranberry Orange Relish

by Geraldine Duncann
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Makes about 3 cups

This delicious condiment is perfect to accompany the noble Thanksgiving bird in his tasty way.

  • 1 large seedless orange, including the peel
  • 1, 12-ounce package fresh cranberries
  • 1 ½ cups of sugar
  • 1 cup of orange juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger root

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmegPeel the orange and reserve half of the peel.  Dice the orange.  Chop half of the peel very finely.  Put all ingredients into a heavy sauce pan with a heavy lid.  Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a rapid simmer and cover.  Continue to cook for about fifteen minutes.  Remove the lid and continue cooking until much of the liquid has evaporated and a jam like consistency is achieved.

Mulled Wine Jelly

by Geraldine Duncann
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Makes about 4 cups

Mulled wine jelly is excellent to use as you would any other jelly.  Try serving it at a tea party on toast rounds with cream cheese or fresh Mozzarella.  Mulled wine jelly also goes magnificently with turkey.  Try it with your Thanksgiving bird as a delectable alternative to cranberries.  I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

  • 3 cups Mulled Wine
  • 1 box SURE.JELL fruit Pectin
  • 1/2 teaspoon butter
  • 4 cups sugar

Put the wine, into a six or eight quart saucepan.  Stir in the pectin. Add the butter.  Bring the mixture to a full rolling boil, (a boil that doesn’t stop bubbling when stirred) on high heat, stirring constantly. 

Stir in the sugar.  Return to a full rolling boil and boil for exactly one minute, stirring constantly.  Remove from the heat and skim off any foam with a large metal spoon.Ladle into sterilized jars, filling to within one quarter inch of the tips.  Cover with lids or melted paraffin.  It is best to keep it refrigerated.

Corn Pudding with Fresh Herbs

by Geraldine Duncann
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Serves 6 to 8

This almost authentic early American corn pudding is great any time; however, it’s particularly nice when it enhances your Thanksgiving table.

  • 1 cup of yellow corn meal
  • 1 cup of all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 4 eggs, separated
  • 2 cups milk or half and half
  • 1, 10 ounce package frozen corn kernels – (about 2 cups) or the equivalent cut fresh from the cob
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
  • 1 clove of garlic, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
  • A few gratings of nutmeg
  • Ground Cayenne to taste
  • Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 350° f  (180°c or Gas mark 4).  Sift of mix all dry ingredients together well and set aside.  Separate the eggs.  Beat the yolks with the milk and fold into the dry ingredients.  Mix only until the dry ingredients are moistened.  Add the corn, herbs, spices, salt and pepper and stir gently.  Beat the egg whites until they hold soft peaks and gently fold into the corn batter.  Pour into an oiled baking dish that will hold about twice the capacity of the batter.  Bake for forty-five minutes to an hour.  It is done when a slim bamboo skewer inserted into the center comes out clean.

Herb and Parmesan Biscuits

by Geraldine Duncann
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Makes about 12 to 15 biscuits

If you like biscuits, you’ll love these delectable, flaky, crusty, savory little nuggets of flavor.  Imagine a perfect biscuit, further enhanced by Parmesan and savory herbs.

  • 2 ½ cups of all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 teaspoon mixed dry herbs – (Italian seasoning)
  • 1 stick of cold butter or margarine, cut into small pieces
  • 3/4 cup cold buttermilk *
Pre-heat the oven to 350°.  Toss the dry ingredients together into a bowl.  Add the butter and using a wire pastry cutter, cut into the flour until all is well blended. When finished the size of the shortening should be no larger than peas.  Add the buttermilk and using a table fork, stir into the butter and flour mixture until all the dry ingredients are moistened.  Do not overwork or the resulting biscuits will be tough.  Gather the dough together into a ball and working on a lightly floured surface, pat out into a disk that is about 1 inch thick. Don’t worry if the surface is a bit cracked and lumpy looking.  Cut biscuits with a two inch cutter.  Place about an inch apart on a baking sheet that has been lined with baker’s parchment.  Place in the center of the pre-heated oven and bake for twenty to twenty-five minutes or until golden brown and flaky.  Remove from the oven and serve at once with much more butter than you should ever eat.  

* If you haven’t got buttermilk, add 1 teaspoon of lemon juice or white vinegar to the 3/4 cup of milk.

Zucchini Corn Bread

by Geraldine Duncann
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Makes an 8 or 9 inch skillet full

This is a recipe I developed one of those years when the zucchini in the garden got carried away with their own importance.  You know, the year when you have so damn many zucchini that you’ve tried every recipe in every cookbook on the shelf, have given them to all your relatives and friends and fill bags with them to take to the local bus stop and foisted them off on poor unsuspecting commuters on their way home from work.

I’m sure you have several recipes for delicious, dark, rich, sweet version.  This is a savory version that goes great with a pot of beans.  You will need an 8 or 9 inch cast iron skillet to make this cornbread.

  • 1 cup all-porpoise flour
  • 1 cup yellow corn meal
  • 1 cup Masa Harina
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • ¼ cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon Chili Powder
  • About  1 ½ cups grated zucchini
  • 1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
  • 2 eggs, lightly beaten
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • Cold water
  • Oil for the skillet

Preheat the oven the oven to 500° or 550°.  Put about 2 tablespoons of olive oil in the skillet and put the skillet in the center of the oven.

Sift all dry ingredients together into a large mixing bowl.  Add the grated zucchini and cheese and toss to coat evenly.  Mix the oil and egg together and add to the bowl, gradually add enough cold water to make a thick batter, stirring gently as you add. 

Now, working quickly and carefully, (remember, that skillet is going to be scorching hot,) remove the skillet from the oven and pour the batter into it. * Place the skillet back in the oven, reduce the heat to 350° and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until a bamboo skewer inserted into the center comes out clean.  Remove from the oven and allow to cool for about 5 minutes before cutting into wedges.  Serve hot with more butter than anyone has any business eating.  This is great with beans or BBQ.  AND PLEASE, if there is any leftover, which there most likely won’t be, don’t reheat it in the microwave.  That will completely destroy the wonderful texture.  It’s far better to eat it room temperature.  Try slicing the leftovers in half and eating with a wedge of good sharp Cheddar.

*  Don’t get all anal and try to scrape every last drop of batter into the skillet.  The point is to get the batter into the hot, hot skillet, and back into the oven before the skillet cools down.  This is what gives the bread its wonderful texture.

Fresh Fruit Salad

by Geraldine Duncann
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Serves 6 to 8

This is a good basic recipe for a fresh fruit salad or compote that allows the delicate flavors of the fruit to be the primary focus, not some sweet and sticky additive like baby marshmallows or cool-whip.  Since it depends on fresh fruit, the ingredients for this salad may be varied depending on what fruit is in season.

Fruits Available in Summer

  • peaches
  • apricots
  • cherries
  • ripe but firm plums
  • melons
  • pears

Use any combination of the above fruits that may be in season.  Cut the fruits into bite size pieces.  Peel the fruits only if the skins seem tough to you.  After cutting sprinkle lightly with lemon juice to prevent discoloration.

Usually Available Fresh Fruits

  • pineapple
  • strawberries
  • seedless grapes (I like to use a combination of green, red and black)
  • kiwi fruit
  • papaya
  • mango
  • oranges

These fruits are usually available in markets year round.  You will need about six to eight total cups of fruit, cut into bite size pieces.

Orange and Mustard Dressing

Combine all fruits in a large bowl and sprinkle lightly with sugar to taste and squeeze over a bit of fresh lemon juice to prevent discoloration.  Toss very gently and refrigerate for at least an hour.  To serve, place all fruit in an attractive serving dish, (I like to use a glass one for this).  Strain the dressing and pour as much of it as you wish over the cut fruit.  Garnish with sprigs of fresh mint and slices of unpeeled orange and a few fresh strawberries.  This is a wonderful addition to any table.  If you are serving it during summer consider serving in a hollowed out watermelon shell.

Old Fashion Turkey Gravy

by Geraldine Duncann
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Makes about 6 cups

Many people think making gravy is a no brainer and one of the least important parts of the meal.  NOT!  A good gravy takes time, knowledge and finesse to achieve.  Gravy can make or break a meal.  One needs to put as much time, energy and consideration into the making of their gravy as any other part of the meal.  When making turkey gravy to accompany the noble Thanksgiving bird, you have a head start.  Roasting a turkey produces turkey drippings, an essential part of making good, flavorful turkey gravy. 

For me, my turkey gravy begins the day before Thanksgiving when I boil the neck and giblets to make a good stock or broth.  I need a lot of good rich turkey stock.  I will need it for soup, for sauces and of course for the gravy.  To insure that I will have enough and that it is flavorful, I always buy an extra turkey neck and extra giblets.  It doesn’t matter if you can’t find extra turkey giblets.  You can supplement with chicken giblets and even chicken necks and backs.  After all, you already have one turkey neck and set of giblets. 

So, make your stock, strain it and set it aside to use as needed.  Roast your turkey by your favorite method, however, periodically, siphon off the pan juices that accumulate in the bottom of the roasting pan with one of those bulb basters.  Collect your pan juices into a bowl and as they coo,l skim off as much fat as possible.  Do not throw it all away.

Pan juices from turkey and roasting pan

  • 1/4 cup dry white wine or apple juice
  • 4 tablespoons reserved fat from pan juices
  • 1/4 cup all-porpoise flour
  • Turkey or chicken stock or broth (3, 15.5-ounce cans)
  • 1 cup sliced mushrooms, (optional)
  • Chopped turkey giblets * (optional)
  • 1/4 cup finely minced fresh parsley
  • Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
Strain the pan juices from your roasted turkey.  Allow to sit for about ten minutes.  Skim off as much of the fat as possible and set aside.  Place the empty roasting pan over two burners on medium-high heat.  Add the wine or apple juice and cook, stirring and scraping to dissolve the bits and pieces stuck to the pan.  Do this for about two minutes.  Add the four tablespoons of reserved turkey fat and the flour and cook, stirring all the while until a rich chestnut color, about three or four minutes. 

Whisking all the while, add the pan juices and enough stock or broth to make a total of 6 cups of liquid.  Bring to a boil while whisking, then reduce to a simmer and continue cooking, whisking occasionally, until thickened, glossy and almost translucent.

Add the mushrooms if using and cook for another minute or two.  Add the chopped giblets, if using and the parsley and cook only until heated through.  Season to taste with salt and pepper and use.

* I usually pick the meat off the boiled neck of the turkey and chop along with the liver, heart and gizzard and add to my gravy

Perfect Mashed Potatoes

by Geraldine Duncann
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Photos to come!

Perfect mashed potatoes are not difficult to achieve, but I do find the job goes easier if I start by running the boiled spuds through an old fashion potato ricer.  I feel fortunate that I have my mother’s which dates from the early 1900’s.  They are still being manufactured, however the old ones are much more functional and of superior construction.

How Many Spuds Will I Need:  A basic rule of thumb is, one pound of potatoes will make about half a cup of mashed potatoes.  This will vary slightly depending on the type of potato used, how old they are, how long they were cooked, etc.

To Peel or Not to Peel:  Peeling your spuds before boiling definitely makes the mashing process easier, however, peeling before boiling can allow them to too much water which can result in somewhat less than perfect mashed potatoes.  It’s your call.  Peeling hot boiled spuds can be a great big pain in the euphemism.

Boiling the Potatoes:  Whether you peel or do not peel, scrub the spuds first.  Then place in a large pot and cover with cold water.  Bring to a rapid boil, and then reduce the heat to maintain a slow rolling boil, cover and cook until the potatoes are fork tender but not falling apart.  Once they have been cooked long enough to begin falling apart they will start to absorb water.  As soon as they are done, drain (Always run the cold water tap while draining a hot pot.  This will prevent the boiling water from breaking the seals in your pipes).  Mash or rice your potatoes while they are still hot.

To Rice or Not to Rice:  If you have a ricer, by all means use it.  Riceing the potatoes before mashing makes for the most perfect mashed potatoes, however, if you don’t have a ricer, don’t sweat it.  You can still have excellent mash, it’s just a wee bit more work.  If using a ricer, always rinse it under running water as soon as you have finished.  Once the little bits of potato dry on it it is a real pain to clean.

Milk, Cream and Butter:  For the richest, most flavorful mashed potatoes I like to use half-and-half and lots of butter.  This of course does add a significant amount of unwanted calories and cholesterol.  Mashed potatoes are just fine with milk and a wee bit of butter or even no butter at all but butter does really make them yummy.  I find that using pure cream makes them just a bit too sweet for my taste.  On the farm, however my mother always used cream because we had a cow, and as a kid I loved them.  Whatever you use, you should have the liquid warm before adding to the spuds, and if using butter, melt it in the hot milk or cream.

With a Ricer:  If you are using a ricer, run the spuds through it, a bit at a time.  Use a very large bowl, one deep enough that you can put the ricer below the rim, because sometimes bits of potato shoot out of the ricer and splatter about the kitchen.  Hot mashed potato in the eye isn’t very plesant.  Once the potatoes have been riced you may then begin slowly adding the hot liquid and butter and just whip them with a fork.
Without a Ricer:  If you are not using a ricer, put the spuds in a deep bowl and mash with a hand held masher.  Once they are all mashed, use a fork and begin whipping in the warm liquid and butter.  Some people like to use a food processor or a rotary beater.  I find that sometimes this can develop gluten in the potato and make them just a bit on the gluey side.   

How Much Liquid:  How much milk or cream and butter to add is strictly up to you.  Some people like their mashed potatoes quite stiff.  I personally like them quite soft.  Add the liquid slowly until you reach the desired texture.

Seasoning:  Once the potatoes are whipped you may season them however you wish.  Salt and most likely pepper or course.   Some people like to add a bit of minced parsley, fresh chives or other herbs.  Some people slip in a bit of grated Parmesan or other cheese.  Me, unless I am using them for some special application, I like them with just salt and pepper.  To serve I usually put a gob of butter in the center and let it melt into a golden pool and sprinkle a wee bit of chopped parsley over the top, just for presentation.

Roasted Garlic: An excellent addition to mashed potatoes is Roasted_Garlic.  Chop the cloves of roasted garlic fine and mix with the mashed potatoes along with any other seasonings you may be adding.  How much.  That’s up to you. 

Leftovers:  I always make more mashed potatoes than I think we are going to need because leftover mash has many excellent uses.

Rustic Mashed Potatoes:

In my opinion, rustic mashed potatoes are the invention of restaurateurs who wish to save the costly labor of peeling and mashing potatoes.  Now mind, I’m not saying that they aren’t good, but please, call them something else.  Rustic refers to things of the country and every country farm wife prided herself on her creamy, smooth mashed potatoes.  If her mashed potatoes had been full of lumps and still had the peels on, her husband would most likely have sent her packing.  So, let’s call this modern creation something else.  How about, Lumpy Good Tasting Spuds?”

Stuffed Baby Pumpkins

by Geraldine Duncann
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Makes 8 to 10

This distinctive and delectable side dish will help take your Thanksgiving feast out of the ordinary.  These beautiful little stuffed pumpkins are not only delicious, they are a beautiful enhancement to your Holiday table, and are the very essence of the harvest.

  • 8  miniature pumpkins – (choose pumpkins of uniform size and shape)
  • 1 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil
  • 1 yellow onion, diced
  • 2 or 3 cloves of garlic, minced
  • About 1/2 cup of finely diced celery
  • 1/2 teaspoon dry dill weed
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 1/4 cup currants
  • 1/4 cup pine nuts
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 ½ cups long grain white rice
  • Chicken stock or broth – (or commercial) – (vegetarians and vegans use Court Bouillon)
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • Salt and coarse ground black pepper to taste

Place the pumpkins on a baking sheet.  Using a metal skewer, poke 2 or 3 small holes in the top.  Put in the oven at 350° and bake until they may just be pierced with a skewer.  Remove from the oven and allow to cool.  When cool enough to handle, cut off the tops and reserve.  Use a small spoon and remove the seeds from each pumpkin.  Set aside.Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet and gently sauté the onion, garlic and celery until soft but not yet beginning to brown.  Add the next six ingredients and continue to sauté over a medium heat, stirring all the while, for another  two or three minutes.  Add the rice and continue to cook, stirrng until evenly coated with the oil and sautéed vegetables.  Smooth the top of the rice and add enough broth or stock to stand approximately one inch above the level of the rice.  Bring to a boil, uncovered, and continue cooking until the level of the liquid is just even with the top of the rice.  Cover with a tight fitting lid and turn off the heat.  Leave for thirty five to forty minutes.  Remove the lid, add the parsley and fluff the rice.  Return the lid and leave for another five minutes.  Season to taste with salt and pepper and use this to stuff the pumpkins.  Top each stuffed pumpkin with its lid.  Place the stuffed pumpkins in a baking pan, cover with foil and place in a pre-heated 350° degree oven for about twenty five to thirty minutes, or until hot through.  Serve hot.